WikiLoc Portugal 06
Full to bursting point (again) we three pork pies on our Portuguese tour, started the 600 steps leading up to Lamego cathedral. Several hours later, wheezing and sweaty, we reached the top and discovered there was road at the back of it.
It's a beautiful sight, the cathedral, not the pork pies!
Our path lies to the west on route to Porto in two days time. The Douro river weaves lazily in the same direction and formed our backdrop for the duration.
Neither the TET, nor the ACT routes head in the direction we needed to go. Luckily I'd found multiple route uploads on WikiLoc for this part of Portugal and had stitched a few together. One of them was from 2017 so it was with some trepidation I began. I was hoping the routes weren't created by a trials champion and would still be passable by three pork pies with luggage.
Above, a young fella on his one horse power donkey and a view of the Douro from the trail, below.
All week there have been religious parades taking place for 'Corpus Christi' (the body of Christ) in the small villages. On numerous occasions flowers were scattered in the streets along the roads and we pondered the meaning.
In odd contrast to the spiritual celebration this war plane was next to one such parade. The photos weren't worth posting as there were too many god botherers (religious folk) between me, at the back, and the priests, doing their thing with choirs or bands, at the front.
"Ah ok then" I heard Jason say on the intercom. He was looking at the track as it disappeared up a steep hill climb. Much more like a trials challenge than an adventure route.
Above, Jason kindly demonstrates how not to do it. Note how high the handle bar is, such was the steepness of the incline.
Much laughter later and on his second attempt, he succeeded. Sarah just outright refused and passed her bike to me.
Below, mountain roads forever and not a gate in sight.
...until now
another difficult section. Locked gate to the left, steep drop to the right, brown pants in the middle.
A kilometre or so later the reason for the locked gate became obvious. The local vineyard owner was laying pipe ( 😉 ) ...and the path was all dug up.
We passed through several vineyards today clinging to the side of the hills. Each time our path zigzaged up and down in a series hairpins and the bikes kicked up dust so thick it resembled a smoke screen from a James Bond car. I am not exaggerating, it was so dense and reduced visibility to nothing, like a white out you experience whilst skiing.
All this dust makes a rider hungry! Best we stop for a light bite that could feed a family of eight. As we ate the heavens opened and we grappled for a brolly as the church bells opposite rang wildly. Later we learned the local village boys were undertaking their confirmation ceremony.
The river and the vineyards ever present.
After approximately 8hrs of riding we reached our destination for the night, Lamego. In stark contrast to Fez Coa the place was lively and vibrant and had a wonderful old quarter.
Yes, that is an Irish bar on the right!
Meat and Cheese and not a vegetable in sight. A veritable heaven for high cholesterol gout tourism.
The police lined the streets as Lamego geared up for their own Corpus Christi ceremony. I just reached the hotel before the streets were closed. Jason and Sarah were actually stopped by one officer for a minor traffic indiscretion! Tut tut! Hooligans!!
Our hotel this night was the Douro Castelo Signature Hotel. It was as grand as the name would suggest, the chap on reception was excellent and opened a fake wall to the garage allowing us to hide the dirt bikes.
A discreet photo bombing opportunity. I wonder if she noticed me in the background.
Today's ride. 100+ miles, 200 vineyards, 1200steps and 5000 calories.
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