Intercontinental Rally - RWTD Day 03

 Day2

I wake in the desert before day break, i slept well enough and breakfast on beef jerky and nuts. Its liberating being able to pitch at tent and make home where ever you need, for now i'm a hobo and free.

Below, camel crossing.

Watching the sun rise i break camp and prepare myself for the journey to Nouakchott, the capital city, and my first stop for fuel.

Finally at the capital on the trusty DR.

Below, the third station i tried had petrol. Huge queue for diesel though.

The capital is crazy, like chaotic clockwork, it shouldn't work, but it does. People, camels, goats and all manner of vehicles mash and mingle in a haze of dust and fumes and horns. The pavements are sand.

There appears to be more mechanics shops that any other business. It not surprising, almost every vehicle is testament to ingenuity, held together by zip ties and will power. Working lights are an optional extra reserved for only the most prestigious...

I must applaud the the ingenuity of the mechanics, I pass a truck broken down in the middle of the road with his rear axle hanging off. Rather than move it, they just turn the scene into a roundabout and fix it where it's where it stands. On my return trip a few days later the axel is on. Amazing .

Only 444KM between Nouakchott and Atar town where I'm told there will be fuel. With the extra 5l on the back I'll probably have enough range to do it. The thought of running out is not pleasing though, is this really the place to test you range?

Below, typical desert dress wear. The blue contrasts with the sand, though I'm not sure if that's why they favour it.

I'm not risking it. About 2/3rds of the way, in the town of Akjoujt, not a single station has essence. A local guy points to shed with a telephone number. The guys at the next fuel station are really friendly and speak English. They call the number and one of them takes me to the shack to buy 5Litres from a jug. They do a deal between them and I'm sure I'm paying more, but its still so cheap and really appreciate their help. I give them both a tip, i hope they help the next traveller.

Below, a common site - the sand reclaiming the land.

... how i wished i hadn't stop to take the photo above. I got stuck twice! 

When you do big miles you get into a zen like state and they just tick by. Its not boring and i feel happy, elated almost. I enjoy the helmet time and soak up the sights, cruising on the DR at 55mph under the endless sky. The wind is strong today, sand blows head on and my eyes water. I stop for lunch, feasting on dry local bread and meat and ponder how long it takes for scurvy to set in.

Below, yep - probably safe, right?

I realize that I can make it to Chinguetti today, but I don't know where the rally is camping. I use the Garmin InReach to contact Sarah (my eye in the sky, or girlfriend ;) ) to get the GPS coordinates of the bivouac. The inreach has been brilliant, its basic texting, like the early days of mobile phones, but being able to contact Jason and Sarah gives me the sense that i am not alone.

Below the rally bivouac that the InReach helped me find.

In Atar I meet Abu Baba at the road side, he asks if I need petrol, because he has some. Ha! the ever helpful people. I politely refuse and go to the station, Abu follows me. He is of medium height, slightly built and of Senegal decent. I warm to his friendly manner and big smile and he actually helps me set up a Mauritanian SIM on my phone. He also takes the opportunity to add his number to my contacts, just in case i need help.

From an oncoming vehicle i see a large head poking onto my carriage way. I laugh out loud as it zips passed.

How many camels can you fit in a pickup?   

Between Atar and Chinguetti are the most incredible roads, tracks and views. To balance the good, there's also the worst corrugated tracks i have ever been on. It literally shook some of the bolts from the bike! I've been riding for nearly 11 hours, but am still loving it.

Chinguetti is a pilgrimage destination for Muslims, it houses some ancient islamic texts in the old town. For me, it was just great to see the rally flags!

As I pulled up I spotted another DR 650 and I stopped to talk to the rider. A French Canadian traveller called Julian. We meet twice more this evening and i listen to his stories.

Below, Julian's DR 650 and the man himself.

It was great to catch up with Barrie and the other chaps at the rally canteen that evening.

Tomorrow i'll attempt a solo desert crossing...