Intercontinental Rally - RWTD Day 07

We have an African land border crossing today. I'm excited and nervous at the prospect.

Below, the adventure truck and my adventure bike

There are two routes available to the teams, but I want to travel with Barrie and Alan. I'll ride my bike escorting the Adventure Truck on the Service Route. My reasons are two fold, I want to experience 'a day in the life of the support team' and I'd like support at the border.

We first pass through Nouakchott port where i see old women sweeping and sieving the road dust. I assume they're looking for grain that falls from passing trucks. Its early and they live in tents made from sheets next to the road. What a life.

Leaving the city and Mauritanian normality resumes, sand and empty roads. The rally teams ahead of us have forewarned the local kids and now we're frequently greeted by small crowds. Many of the rally trucks throw sweets out along the road side and so the kids wave and beckon for you to stop.

We pass though a Mauritanian national park, and for the first time, other than the ocean, I see standing water in the country!

I say 'pass through' like you drive through a park in England, but this is a different scale.

We're in it for ages dodging massive holes, driving off road, passing signs for crocs...

and seeing warthogs run across the track...

The adventure truck enjoying the route.

I want to use the term lawless to describe the border, but obviously it can't be because it's official, clerical, bureaucratic. That's not the impression you get. There's two single barriers and tens of people, some are official some are vagabonds and chancers. They're hard to tell apart. One guy is walking around with a pen and paper pretending to take details down and asking for papers. He just 'writing' scribble on his paper, like a toddler imitating a parent, and Barrie honks his horn and shoo's him away. (brilliant)

The rally has a 'border helper' who takes my passport away into the building. Whilst it's gone I need to swap my Mauritania money to Senegal Francs. I need to do this because i left all my Senegal money at home. (well done Dan!)

Theres not an official change shop, it's illegal to change on the black market and illegal to take currency out of the country. (go figure the logic). I talk to three black market currency dealers and strike a deal with one who accidentally gives me more money. He realises his mistake and comes to find me 15mins later. I have no-issue allowing him to correct it, I'm not here to make money from the poor guy that's actually helping me. He takes 10percent commission and goes to find change.

His friend says, 'don't worry he'll be back', then follows with the advice, 'but don't trust anyone at a border!'

His friend gives me the changers smart phone as collateral! The changer comes back and laughs that I have his phone. We shake hands, smile, and the deal is done.

Processed by the Mauritanian side I move to the Senegal gate. There's a bridge between that costs 4,000 francs in Senegal (under 10 euro) to cross. There's no other way over and im glad i took a punt and got money exchanged.

The difference between the countries is immediately apparent and I'm not even through the gate yet. There's clean tarmac and colourful trucks for a start! The people have also changed from Moroccan looking to black African in bright clean clothes with big smiles. Another helper takes my passport and bike v5.

Below, salt farming??

I'm approached by multiple friendly 'looky looky' men offering their wares. All them have 'best price' and 'only for you' offers. A group of children approach. The oldest presents the youngest and cutest, who, to their credit, has a washed face with no visible snot. (The others are caked in it) The little one pulls the cutest smile whilst the oldest asks for money for her.

My passport is soon returned along with insurance and I'm done.

Senegal has birds, trees, motorbikes, newer cars and trucks and loads and loads of people. I see as many people on the way to ZebraBar, our destination, as I did in days in Mauritania.

The bar is amazing and I make my way to the beach with a massive beer. Soo good after the dry country I've just passed through. A young and humerous looky' looky man attempts to sell me brightly coloured pantaloons. He explains that today is Friday and he is black, so he's going to give me a black Friday price.

A local guy on a cool bike

Most people settle in the bar and soak up the beer and atmosphere. I set up camp and notice a bicycle in the background. 

The proprietors are kind and friendly and have settled here for 27years.  They are of European roots.  The bar seems to attract travellers, at least two of the staff are just passing through and i meet Fiona and Marc www.brandisbrandisbrand.com who are cycling around the world.  Its Marc's birthday today and i stop to chat.   They explain cycling is cheap, keeps you fit and is an easy way to see the world. 

In Mauritania i detailed the driving wind, the biting sand and endless road. Not exactly a cyclists paradise,  yet i saw several travellers peddling their way through the bleak wilderness.

The 9pm briefing explains we all set off late tomorrow to allow the service teams to get to the finish line. For the riders is the iconic 100mile beach race. For the service crews it's a 4+ hour crowded road journey.