Serbia

 270 miles: Urban Guerilla, Serbia to Kapitenovo Camping, Croatia 

Bojan, the host at Urban Guerilla, made coffee and croissants for breakfast and baked fresh bread. He packed us off full and with a stash of bread rolls for lunch.

He also explained that some of the best sights were to be found along the banks of the Danube through the Djerdap National Park.

It meant a bit of a detour on an already long day, but how often are you in Serbia, near the border with Romania, with a recommendation from a local?

It didn’t disappoint. Smooth and empty roads rolled lazily through the gorge, following the blue Danube for mile after mile. The majority of the route today follows the danube, from border to border. 

As we approached Belgrade, we had to leave the river to cross one of its tributaries via an inland bridge. The wind picked up and battered us as we did. 

Harvest is in full swing in Serbia, plumes of dust rising skyward from the working combine harvesters and the roads busy with tractors packed with produce.

One of the highlights for me, though I didn’t catch it on camera, was the Serbian police with a speed trap. He was issuing a speeding ticket, but as we rolled by, he stopped and gave us the biker V sign. Legend.

Novisad pictured above, and a tiny Croatian border village, below.

We made coffee in the park and headed to the Croatian border at Bačka Palanka, via Novi Sad. 

Above, a tree grows through the communal lounge at Kapitenovo camping.

Tonight, we’re staying at Kapitenovo Camping, a camping house on the banks of the Danube, hosted by Dinka. 

Dinka insists you mustn’t pay; it’s free. But you have to leave a paragraph or a drawing in her memory book. She’s warm-natured, smiley and kind, and full of stories from those who pass through. What a diamond. 

Serbia has been a pleasant surprise, more so for Sarah who confused it with Siberia, thankfully a bit warmer here. 

Above, sunset from Dinka's garden.